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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.